|Runway Report: Marni AW18|
For Fall 2018, everything at Marni was about contrasts. Backstage before the show creative director Francesco Risso explained to WWD that he considered “the contrast between our irresistible love for innovation and technology and, on the other side, those movements of the soul”. He sought to explore “the universal magnetism that attracts opposites” and wondered if, by fusing the two, he could define “a new primitivism — techno primitivism.” The collection’s duality was particularly exemplified by its severe, glossy leather pieces, which were juxtaposed against raw, natural fabrics, flyaway threads, and rope tassels. For example, the collection opened with a range of shiny belted trenches made of treated leather or plastic that had unfinished threads left trailing. There was a suggestion of recycling in the ponchos formed from blankets and sweaters sewn together with seams inside out — an idea reinforced by the piles of newspapers and used clothes that became the show room seating. The silhouette was divided between a variety of ribbed sweater dresses that clung to the figure and oversized layers. Shocking hues of bright blue, green, pink and red brought a lively pop of color to otherwise natural hues.
|read full article|